Antique 14K White Gold Edwardian-Art Deco Transitional Ring with 0.91ct Untreated Natural Sapphire, circa 1915–1923

This striking antique ring captures a fascinating moment in jewelry history, when the graceful elegance of the Edwardian era was beginning to evolve into the bold geometry of Art Deco.

Crafted in 14K white gold and dating to approximately 1915–1923, the ring features an elevated octagonal collet surrounding a 0.91 carat untreated natural sapphire. The sapphire displays a rich, deep dark blue color that gives the piece a dramatic and sophisticated presence against the cool tone of the white gold.

The elevated setting is characteristic of earlier 20th-century jewelry, designed to raise the center stone and give it prominence. Its octagonal exterior introduces the geometric vocabulary that would become increasingly important during the Art Deco period. Fine milgrain detailing around the setting adds a delicate Edwardian touch, while the shoulders feature distinctive vertical fluting and engraved geometric panels.

The open gallery beneath the center stone reveals the careful construction of the original mounting. The combination of an elevated center setting, octagonal geometry, engraved shoulders, and milgrain decoration makes this an especially appealing example of the Edwardian-to-Art Deco transitional period.

The ring's untreated natural sapphire is a particularly desirable feature for collectors who appreciate gemstones in their natural state. Its deep blue tone contrasts beautifully with the white gold and gives the antique mounting a more unusual and distinctive character than the diamond it was originally designed to accommodate.

Whether worn as an engagement ring, statement ring, or collected as an example of early 20th-century jewelry, this piece offers a wonderful combination of historical character, craftsmanship, and natural gemstone beauty.

Details

• Era: Edwardian-to-Art Deco Transition
• Circa: 1915–1923
• Metal: 14K White Gold
• Center Stone: Natural Sapphire
• Sapphire Weight: 0.91 ct
• Sapphire Treatment: Untreated
• Sapphire Color: Deep Dark Blue
• Stone Shape: Round
• Setting: Elevated Octagonal Collet
• Design Details: Milgrain detailing, engraved shoulders, vertical fluting, geometric panels
• Gallery: Open gallery construction
• Period: Early 20th Century
• Condition: Antique / Estate condition with signs of age consistent with its period
• Hallmark: Unstamped
• Style: Edwardian, Transitional, Early Art Deco
• Origin: American-made, attributed based on construction and design characteristics
• Center Stone Note: The mounting's original design appears to have been intended for a round stone, historically consistent with an Old European Cut diamond. The current 0.91 ct natural sapphire is a later stone replacement unless otherwise documented.

Collector's Note: The absence of a hallmark is not unusual for American jewelry of this period and does not, by itself, indicate a modern reproduction. The dating and attribution are based on the ring's construction, elevated octagonal collet, milgrain work, engraved shoulders, and transitional design language.

Questions or Help? Contact us to speak with a jewelry concierge today: 415-255-1151.